Cross the Bosphorus for breakfast or dinner: the Old City seen from Üsküdar
Most visitors stay on the European side, in Sultanahmet, Sirkeci, Karaköy, Galata or Taksim, and eat there. One of the best meals in Istanbul is a short ferry ride away. Cross to Üsküdar on the Asian side and you get a small Bosphorus trip on the way, then a table facing the Maiden’s Tower with the whole Old City skyline behind it. That skyline, Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and Topkapı Palace, is something you cannot see while you are standing in it.
Why cross to Üsküdar?
- The view: from Salacak the Old City lines up across the water, with the Maiden’s Tower about 280 m in front of you.
- The ferry itself: a public ferry across the mouth of the Bosphorus, the cheapest boat trip in Istanbul, paid with an Istanbulkart.
- Sunset: in December and January the sun sets right behind the Maiden’s Tower; the rest of the year it sets over the Old City and Galata.
- A local neighbourhood: Üsküdar is where many Istanbul families eat, with historic mosques a short walk from the shore.
How to get there
- By ferry: ferries to Üsküdar leave from Eminönü, Karaköy, Beşiktaş and Kabataş. From the Üsküdar pier, walk about 15 minutes south along the shore (1.1 km) to Salacak.
- By Marmaray train from Sultanahmet: from Sirkeci station one stop under the Bosphorus to Üsküdar, then about 11 minutes on foot.
- By taxi: ask for “Filizler Köftecisi, Salacak, Üsküdar” (Harem Sahil Yolu Cd. No:61).
- Combine it: ferry over, eat, walk the shore to watch the sunset, and take the Marmaray back.
What to eat at Filizler Üsküdar
- Turkish breakfast from 08:00: the serpme (spread) breakfast for the table, or breakfast plates, with Turkish tea.
- Köfte, grilled Turkish meatballs, served with mashed potatoes, rice and charred peppers; add a salad and ayran.
- Grills, soups and Turkish desserts such as oven-baked rice pudding (fırın sütlaç).
- Halal meat, no alcohol served. The menu is on filizler.com in 12 languages.
Good to know
- Open daily 08:00–22:30. No reservation needed for small groups; reservations are only for groups of 10 or more (+90 216 342 00 00).
- Prices are in Turkish lira; the live menu shows current prices.
- Near Sabiha Gökçen Airport? Filizler Pendik is about 13 minutes by car.
Frequently asked questions
Where should tourists eat in Istanbul for a view of the Old City?
Cross to the Asian side: from Salacak in Üsküdar the Old City skyline (Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapı) lines up across the water, with the Maiden’s Tower in front. Filizler Üsküdar (Harem Sahil Yolu Cd. No:61) serves breakfast from 08:00, köfte and grills until 22:30.
How do I get to Üsküdar from Sultanahmet?
Take the Marmaray train from Sirkeci one stop to Üsküdar and walk about 11 minutes along the shore, or take a ferry from Eminönü to Üsküdar and walk about 15 minutes.
Where can I have Turkish breakfast with a Bosphorus view?
On the Salacak waterfront in Üsküdar, facing the Maiden’s Tower. Filizler Üsküdar serves the serpme (spread) Turkish breakfast daily from 08:00.
Is Filizler halal?
Yes, the meat is halal and no alcohol is served.
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